The Outer Hebrides - 15.4.2011
I never went to Scotland on the motorcycle. I’ve seen too many bikers drying out in cafes on the road to the Isles. So I’ve decided to head north for my inaugeral road trip in my campervan. I set off yesterday and drove the motorways up to Moffat, 235 miles. Not much to say about the journey except to report that Rodney the campervan performed better than I expected, keeping up a steady 65 –70 mph with enough left to overtake all the slow traffic, lorries etc.
I boarded the ferry at 1.00 pm and settled down for the 5 hour trip to the Isle of Barra. I am sitting on deck, in the sun, surrounded on 3 sides by mountains and heading out to sea. If I can summon up enough energy I might break out the binoculars and do a bit of birdwatching, decisions, decisions. Finally we arrive at Castlebay harbour. Its 6.30 and I’m off to test the information I have gleaned from the internet regarding ‘Wild Camping’. I head off south across a causeway and arrive at the hall at about 7.00 pm. There is nobody around. A sign tells me its ok to park for the night and use the facilities at the hall, sink, running water, toilet, and to put £4 in the honesty box on leaving. This is indeed a wild and remote spot (the village is 2 miles away) and its blowing a gale outside. However, after a meal with the obligitary glass or two of wine I read for a while and turn in for the night. The following morning I wake to find that although its still windy the weather is clear, if overcast. On with the walking boots hat and coat and off to explore. I am on a narrow strip of land with the sea on both sides, sheltered by sand dunes. Walking along the beach I think that mine might be the only footprints on it today and realise that there is nothing between me and North America but the raging sea. I can’t imagine setting off across it, as people did 100 years ago, looking for a better life. After a pleasant morning beachcombing I pack up and move on. My first Wild Camp, what fun, thank you Vatersay! Back in castlebay I find a modern leisure centre and pay £1 to use the showers. A late lunch at the local café and then it’s off to see the sights. I arrive, by chance at the ferry to Eriskay and decide to move on. I have bought an Island Hopper ticket enabling me to travel all the way up to Stornaway and back over to Skye at the end. On to South Uist, via a causeway and heading north I finally turn into a campsite at Caranish that has just opened. Another lovely location with excellent facilities. It even has a converted barn for backpackers to cook, wash clothes and dry out. Its still very windy and showery and the backpackers are grateful for this. I saw a young couple and a family cycling today, and I thought I was hard core!
Its Sunday morning and the weather is windy, threatening rain and quite dull generally. A touring day I think. Drove to Benbecula, which has some sort of military base and find a small supermarket open. I stock up on fresh veg and head back onto the road north. By the afternoon the weather has cheered up no end and I spend it at Balnarand nature reserve. Off on the road again passing lochs with castles in the middle and the traditional Blackstone Houses by the roadside, a very flat, marshy landscape.
Driving aimlessly north I arrive at the Bernaray Ferry and hop on to sail over to South Harris. On the way I spot a Sea Eagle. This is one of the few place in britain where they can be seen and I consider myself very lucky. Bloody big bugger too! Onto the Island and the scenery has changed. There are mountains and white sandy beaches everywhere. I spot another ‘Wild Camping’ spot at a place called Horgabost. Not quite as wild as Vatersay but very remote all the same. This place has tin ‘workmens huts’ which turn out to have toilets and showers in them. In the distance is the island of Taransay, the ‘castaway’ island of TV fame. Vegetable Rissotto, White Wine, Radio 4, Sea View. It doesn’t get much better.
Monday morning is a cold one and no wonder. When I look outside its clear skies! A walk on this beautiful beach is on the list today. On the road again and heading north the scenery is stunning. Lots of Mountains and Lochs. On the way I visit the famous standing stones at Callanish and the head for the Butt of Lewis, which is as far north as I can go. There’s not a lot here, so after a walk along the cliffs I head back to see the rebuilt village of Gearrannan with its famous Blackstone Houses. Its another ‘Wild Camp’ with use of the public toilets in the village. I spend the evening wandering on the beach, photographing a fabulous sunset. As darkness fell the Village was illuminated by spotlights set into the ground.
Tuesday starts off overcast and misty and a realise how lucky I was to see that sunset last night. Today I'm off to Stornaway, the biggest town on the Islands.
On the way I visit the famous Standing Stones at Callenish and then complete my journey North until I reach the Butt Of Lewis.
If I want to go any further I'll need a boat! Back at Stornaway I hit traffic (well 4 cars). It’s a bit of a shock after the last few days.The Laxdale Holiday Park is just outside the town. I get booked in and settle down for some lunch. It is now doing ‘Scottish Rain’. The stuff that tends to soak you thru in minutes. So its off to the Co Op for an exciting half hour of shopping followed by a walk around the town. It’s a miserable place in the rain and seems to comprise of only about 4 streets. I will spare you the details. Its Wednesday and I’m heading 30 miles south to Tarbert, to catch the ferry over to Skye. I’ve got plenty of time so decide to explore a circular route to the south of the town called the Golden Road. I thought I had been to some wild places on this visit but this capped them all. Miles of single track road through craggy moorland with the occasional clump of small cottages. So I’m about 20 minutes from arriving back on Skye where, 6 years ago I stood on the same jetty watching the ferry set sail for Stornaway, never dreaming that I would do the trip in a campervan called Rodney. After a night on a campsite on the shores of Loch Grishorne, the rest of the journey home was spent travelling down thru Skye, catching the last of the ferries back onto the mainland, staying on a nice campsite in Glencoe, another night at Moffat and then home. All in all it has been an unqualified success and I look forward to the summer.
© 2011 BarrySwan, Nottingham, UK |
