France 2011
Tuesday 12.7.11 The Day Before The usual worries assail me – Will the van be reliable? Will I make the ferry ontime? Will I forget something important? One thing that will be different this time is that I don’t give a “Monkeys” about the weather! No more wondering where I’ll be staying tonight, with a solid roof over my head, a bed and the means to cook myself a meal gives me a lot more scope to go where I want. Tomorrow we head for France. 3 weeks of touring around. Destinations include Normandy, The Loire and The Massif Central. Wed. 13.7.11 That was easy! Bunged a few things in the fridge, chucked in some last minute essentials, rolled my bicycle in to the back, and I’m away for 8.00 am. A fairly easy journey down to Dover, spoiled by roadworks as I got close. Two hours later and I’m off down the D928 on the way to “Middle of Nowhere Ville” or “Camping Municipal Beauranville”.
I found this site on the Internet and just followed my sat nav until I arrived at 7.30 pm. Thursday 14.7.11 Cold in the night. The morning is overcast and threatening rain. Kettle on. Cup of Tea. Cheer up France, Rodneys here!
And so to Agincourt – Spelt Azincourt in France. It’s a small village, with people getting ready to celebrate Bastille Day, so the Museum is very quiet. Its surprisingly well done to say that the french don’t usually like to own up to losing a battle. It’s a very modern building with the entrance decked out to resemble the long bow. Well worth an hour or two. However there is no café and the local bar is deserted so its time to press on to my next destination, The Parque Marquenterre (birdwatching reserve) at the mouth of the Somme estuary. I arrive at “Camping Des Crocs” at 2.00 pm.
Once I’m sorted out I set off on a short bike ride to explore the area. I finally arrive back about 3 hours later, tired but happy, a great biking area. A meal on the go and a few beers, sitting outside in the sun. This is more like it. Friday 15.7.11 The Parque Marquenterre is a nature reserve and I am going to spend a few hours there. Its quite expensive to get in - €9.90 – but it soon becomes apparent were the money goes as there are numerous staff around to answer questions in several languages.
I thought I had spotted a couple of big birds yesterday and now here they are. Its almost primeival as I look around the pine trees. There are hundreds of White Cranes nesting in them. Then, across the valley fly a large flock of Spoonbills, wow! There were numerous other species to see and I was well pleased with my visit. I will definitely be returning. At lunchtime I set off for Jumieges, near Rouen. Motorways and D roads, follow the sat nav. I’ve been here before so I know the site – Camping Le Foret. Its been a sunny day today but its spitting with rain again so it’s a quiet evening in and I turn in early. Saturday 16.7.11 In my guide book it describes free parking alongside the river at Rouen and this turns out to be a good piece of info. I park on the opposite side of the river to the Cathedral and walk over into the old city.
Bombed to bits during the Second World War and they have done a fabulous job of rebuilding the town, especially the Cathedral. The streets have a medieval feel to them and one of them – Rue De Gros Horlage (Big Clock Street) – leads to a very modern church built on the site where they burned Joan Of Arc at the stake. My guide book calls it a quirky bit of achitecture. I thought it was a great piece of sculpture and would recommend a visit.
I spent the rest of my time visiting other lesser known sites and as the rain had decided to make its return I decided to head back to Jumieges. There is a medeival fair in the village tonight with lots of craft stalls and food for sale. There is supposed to be music and dancing as well but its raining so hard I decide to give it a miss. I found out later that they had to cancel everything as the electricity failed and everything was flooded. Sunday 17.7.11 Its stopped raining so I pack up and go down to the village for a soggy walk around the medeival fair and a spot of breakfast. Then onto the Jumieges ferry for a free trip across the river, a novel way to take a short cut.
Next stop is Bayeaux to see the Tapestry. Starts to rain again and basically pours it down all the way.
Out at the coast near Bayeaux I arrive at the Omaha Beach campsite at Vierreville Sur Mer.
I was last here 24 years ago when Judith, my wife, was pregnant with our second child. We were with our friends, John and Janet, Mike aged 9 and twins Alex and Robert aged 5.
We visited the Bayeaux Tapestry and I remember wondering how they coped dragging 3 children around. I look out over the sea and wonder how in the hell, and it must have been hell, did the Allied forces manage to storm these beaches and push back the German Army. Every sea shell on the beach seems to represent a dead soldier. Most of them never had cause to leave their town of village and now, half way around the world they were preparing to fight, for what? Freedom? Was it excitement that drove them? My generation has managed to avoid conscription. Although, God knows, we still fight wars. I feel the need to find out more.Here I am, following the path of Medieval history and 7 or 8 centuries later we’re still at it. Romans, Vikings, Saxons, Normans, French, English, Germans, Americans. Who are we? Monday 18.711 Off we go once more – destination The Bayeaux Tapestry. Following the coast road I arrive at a large monument to the Fallen of Omaha Beach. This in itself is impressive but actually on the beach they have built a new monument made of stainless steel and its quite spectacular, especially as the sun has decided to make one of its brief appearances.
At Bayeaux I find a free car park at the bottom of the town and head off to visit the Tapestry. I was warned that this might not be an enjoyable visit but far from it. Yes, there was a bit of a queue and yes people were rushing around a bit inside but I just donned my headphones and ignored the person at the desk who told me just to let it play, by doing this you have to keep up with the commentary. I turned on the “Old Git Button” and spent a couple of minutes finding out how to pause it and turn the volume up and I wandered thru, ignoring the throngs. Later I went to see a short video presentation about the way the Tapestry was made.
I emerged before lunch and headed for the Cathedral. I think I am experiencing Church Burn Out.Time for a Pizza. Sometimes amongst all this superb food one needs something recognizable and simple.
Lots of history around here but this is only a stopover on my way to see my niece in the Loire. I’ll have to come back and spend some time here in the future. Tuesday 19.7.11 My Niece, Louise, is working for Eurocamp on a site in the Loire called Les Etangs De Breche. I am going to visit her and take some much needed supplies of Magazines and Chocolate. On the way I visit the town of Sees. A small place with a very big Cathedral. Driving along I am surrounded by fields full of sunflowers and stop frequently to take pictures. The local farmers give me quizzical looks.
I arrive at the site in Saumer and its spitting with rain again, it seems to be following me around. However Louise is pleased to see me and we arrange to meet when she finishes work and go out for dinner.
The campsite has EVERYTHING! Most of which I don’t need, and at a cost of €33 its 4 times what I have been paying on the Municipal sites. Wednesday 20.7.11 Bye Bye Louise! She looked a little lost. Seeing someone from home probably made her feel a little homesick. Time to leave and let her immerse herself back into the routine, it won’t take long. 19 years of age and working abroad – Go Girl! So to the next stage. Judith is coming to join me for a week in the Massif Central and I will pick her up, courtesy of Ryanair, at Limoge Airport tomorrow. After a cross country journey that seemed to consist of a hundred roundabouts I finally arrive at Camping Saint-Pierre-Chateau, Eymoutiers, about 30 miles out of Limoges. Another drizzly evening. So its on with the pasta, crack a bottle and the radio for company. Thursday 21.7.11 There is a market in Eymoutiers this morning so I stop off and buy stuff for tonights meal. I go and find Limoges airport (typical ryanair, nowhere near the town). I kill a couple of hours with a drive into the countryside and some lunch and then return to Limoges airport, pick Judith up and head back to Eymoutiers. Our first night together in the van. Its raining outside but we are pretty snug in here. Cook a meal and, during a letup in the rain we go for a short walk. Just a shame we can’t see much in the mist as we are camped half way up a mountain. Still it’s warm enough.
It rained a lot in the night but we are both dry and comfortable in the van. The local baker turns up in his van with bread and croissants so that’s breakfast sorted. The weather is not brilliant as we set off and quite frankly doesn’t cheer up much as we arrive at Camping Le Grande Cascade, 1280 metres, high up in the hills above the town of Le Mont Dore in the Massif Central.
Saturday 23.7.11 Misty, Murky, Rain. Where is the sun that shone consistently on my previous visits. Confirms my decision to sell the bike. We need supplies so we go down into town and mooch around the shops. A tour around the area during the afternoon. A restaurent in Le Mont Dore in the evening. Rained on and off all day.
Sunday 24.7.11 Very misty this morning, but then we are half way up a mountain. However things are brightening up so we are off to a local beauty spot for a bit of fresh air. Valleys, forest, waterfalls. It suits us!
We had lunch at a restaurent near the car park with fabulous views of the mountains, and we sat outside! Things are looking up. In the afternoon we went to a village called Besse and happened on a huge wine and cheese festival which filled the whole town. Obviously we bought a few bottles of wine, well it would have been rude not to.
Back at the site its sausage, mash and beans washed down with a little wine. A good day. Monday 25.7.11 Mist and drizzle again. Drove to St Nectaire and visited a factory producing ‘Reliefs’ from petrified wells. Had a long lunch at a local restaurent where I ordered the €12 set menu, a sort of ‘wait and see’ thing that I love ordering. Later we had a walk around Lac Chambon, a popular tourist spot, but very quiet in the rain. Can’t help feeling sorry for the families spending their main holiday in a rented caravan with all this rain. Tuesday 26.7.11 Fuel and extra cash are the aims for today. After filling up with fuel we find a cash machine and lo and behold my cards don’t work. I’ve had this problem with Mastercard before. Fortunately I have a Visa card and that works ok. After an early lunch the sun comes out, so we make a dash for the cable car to take us up to the top of the Puy De Sancy, at 1884 metres it’s the highest peak in the Massif Central.
The views from the top are fantastic. On the way back the weather closes in again. It’s 2.30 pm. The French have just finished lunch and are queueing to come up. What a difference an hour makes around here. They won’t be seeing much at the top.
Back at the site for afternoon tea and biscuits. Out tonight for a final meal in town. Tomorrow we will head back towards Limoges. Its still raining. I don’t want to give the impression that we had a miserable time, far from it. Its been hard work at times but we have seen a lot and remained dry most of the time. It’s certainly flagged up the advantages of traveling by campervan. Wednesday 27.7.11 Well of course, as Judith is leaving tomorrow, the sun is out and it hasn’t rained for 12 hours. Packed and off down the road heading for a site close to Limoges airport. A coffee stop at Orcival, another very small village with a very large church (Basillica), the birthplace of ex President Giscard d'Estaing. Lunch is a picnic and we arrive at Bellac Camping Municipal at 3.30 pm. The sun is out, and I feel sorry for Judith who is flying home tomorrow. In the evening we find a local restaurent for dinner and then have a pleasant walk around this sleepy town. Thursday 28.7.11 Last night, after returning from the Brasserie, we sat outside for the first time since Judith arrived. This morning we are sitting outside again. This is what it is supposed to be like. Judith’s flight is not untill 4.00 pm so, after breakfast I take her to see Oradour Sur Glane, the village that has been preserve from the second world war to remind the world of the atrocities commited.
Lunch in a village on the way back and yet again, it’s very noticeable how many Brits there are here, buying property it seems. At the airport Judith leaves on time and I’m heading north once more.
Friday 29.7.11 I liked Chatillon Sur Indre. The site was great and I woke to blue skies. After buying lunch from a local patisserie I head for Paris, following the Paris Bis signs which I think means scenic route, and apart from 20 km around the city of Blois, hardly see any traffic.
I stop for lunch by the river Loire and eat the food I bought this morning. Then head off up towards Paris again. The last 50 km are very busy, the world has changed back to ‘dog eat dog’ traffic and I feel like turning around and going back to Chatillon. It gets seriously busy as I near Maison Lafitte, where I will be staying, but the Sat Nav gets me there safe and sound. I know this site well as I have been here twice before. It has a train station nearby with a direct line (30 mins) into Paris. An old guy (73) comes over for a chat. He’s English and has been travelling all over France for about 6 weeks in a ford van with a makeshift bed in the back and a camping chair. He has no method of cooking and seems to eat out most of the time. He seems a bit lonely and as the conversation goes on it turns out that his wife had recently died and, for want of something to do, had set off to see how much of France had changed in the 40 years since he was last here. Saturday 30.7.11 I’m on the 8.29 train to Paris. It’s close to 35 years since I last visited the Louvre, my destination for today. I remember sitting and staring at the Mona Lisa for an hour. Not This Time. It feels like most of Japan is here today. The crowds around the picture were unbelievable. 20 or 30 deep and all wanting their photo taken with the Lady, a curiously East Asian custom. In other parts of the museum there was hardly anyone around.
I had forgotten that I had offered to cook dinner for my new friend, Barrie. He came over to the van with 2 tins of cassoulet and some cake that he had bought from the supermarket. So we spent a pleasant evening chatting and eating. Sunday 31.7.11 Its going to be a hot one today so I get ready for a cycle ride to Versailles. The people at the camp reception say its about 15 km. I manage to find some paths and quiet roads for the first 7 km and then I encounter a hill which must have been 5 km long. After a couple of wrong turns I arrive at the main gate, it’s very hot so time for ice cream.
I spend a pleasant hour or two cycling around the enormous lake and decide not to bother with the palace itself as it’s very hot, about 30 degrees.I get stuck into the ride back. I never did find anywhere to buy water and by the time I arrive I am at the ‘far end’. I rig up some shade and drink a large bottle of lager, then I fall asleep for 2 hours. I wake up feeling a little groggy, I’ve pushed it a little too far today and am quite dehydrated. I bought a Panama hat back in England which has hardly been used on this trip, it certainly paid for itself today! Monday 1.8.11 I intended to visit Amiens and see a light show around the Cathedral in the evening. I did go to Amiens and I did visit the Cathedral but I didn’t like the town itself so decided to move on.
I headed aimlessly up the coast, looking for a campsite. They were, of course, full of French families at the start of their annual holidays.
I get to there as they are loading the 8.00 pm ferry and manage to sneak on. Off the ferry I punch ‘Campsites’ into my Sat Nav and find one 5 miles away. It’s dark when I get there but they have a ‘Late Arrivals’ area. So pitched and sorted I settle down for the night. Tuesday 2.8.11 It’s going to be an easy day today so I decide to visit Canterbury on the way back, after all I’ve seen a lot of famous Medieval sights on this trip and it would be a shame to miss this one.
Canterbury Cathedral. Am I biased? Probably. However this was most definitely the icing on the cake. A brilliant end to a great trip. Yes, it rained a lot, but on the whole I had a ball! Rodney the Romahome slogged his way all over France without missing a beat. Through sleepy villages and along hot, filthy motorways we travelled, overloaded with cases of wine on the way back. The adventure is over – until the next time………..
© 2011 BarrySwan, Nottingham, UK |
